Brock and I wore crampons strapped to our mountaineering boots, wool underwear under polyester pants, harnesses with an
ice screw and carabiners, ice axe, ski pole, and gloves.
Two
ice screw anchors failed, resulting in a fall of about 100 feet.
In 1961, he drove to the Caucasus mountains in a Mini, got frostbite, nearly lost another member of the party and had to abseil down an ice-fall held on by an
ice screw on an overhanging ridge.
"I remember thinking to myself there is no way the
ice screw was going to hold this fall," says Salesse.
It came down the gulley I was in and knocked me 35 metres but an
ice screw stopped me from sliding down any further.
The
ice screw held but I went swinging round and hit a ledge injuring my left leg.
Swinging my tools into the ice and standing on the front points of my crampons, I gain height and place an
ice screw into the ice.
A lot of them will ask how an ice axe and an
ice screw can possibly support your entire weight while it's just being held on ice.
Lucky John Hunston, 44, was saved only by a rope and an
ice screw when he plunged 200ft from the summit of Ben Nevis.