This modern place of entertainment stood on the left-hand side of the post road, and backed upon the Rhone. It also boasted of what in Languedoc is styled a garden, consisting of a small plot of ground, on the side opposite to the main entrance reserved for the reception of guests.
And, as though to add to the daily misery which this prosperous canal inflicted on the unfortunate inn-keeper, whose utter ruin it was fast accomplishing, it was situated between the Rhone from which it had its source and the post-road it had depleted, not a hundred steps from the inn, of which we have given a brief but faithful description.
We had such glimpses of the
Rhone gliding along between its grassy banks; of cosy cottages buried in flowers and shrubbery; of quaint old red-tiled villages with mossy medieval cathedrals looming out of their midst; of wooded hills with ivy-grown towers and turrets of feudal castles projecting above the foliage; such glimpses of Paradise, it seemed to us, such visions of fabled fairyland!
There was watercress soup, and sole, and a delightful omelette stuffed with mushrooms and truffles, and two small rare ducklings, and artichokes, and a dry yellow
Rhone wine of which Bartley had always been very fond.
Sometimes, indeed, I felt a wish for happiness and thought with melancholy delight of my beloved cousin or longed, with a devouring maladie du pays, to see once more the blue lake and rapid
Rhone, that had been so dear to me in early childhood; but my general state of feeling was a torpor in which a prison was as welcome a residence as the divinest scene in nature; and these fits were seldom interrupted but by paroxysms of anguish and despair.
The boulders discovered in the pots had traveled a great distance, for there is no rock like them nearer than the distant
Rhone Glacier.
I have been doing odds and ends at Avignon, at Pont Esprit, at Lyons; upon the
Rhone, upon the Saone.' As he spoke, he rapidly mapped the places out with his sunburnt hand upon the floor.
In his seclusions the Vin de Bourgogne had its allotted hour, and there were appropriate moments for the Cotes du
Rhone. With him Sauterne was to Medoc what Catullus was to Homer.
For a charming week we wandered up the Valley of the
Rhone, and then, branching off at Leuk, we made our way over the Gemmi Pass, still deep in snow, and so, by way of Interlaken, to Meiringen.
The plateau lies three thousand feet above the level of the Mediterranean; we shall see over Savoy and Dauphine, and the mountain ranges of the Lyonnais and
Rhone. We shall be in another commune, a hill commune, and on a farm belonging to M.
The distant rolling of thunder in the valley of the
Rhone was coming nearer to the sleeping town of prosaic virtues and universal hospitality.
Unable to sit still and reserve my strength, I walked up and down the room, looking out on the current of the
Rhone, just where it leaves the dark-blue lake; but thinking all the while of the possible causes that could detain my father.