Remember that Fate, as the ancients saw it, was a drawloom
: a weaver and a drawboy both.
A wide array of thirteenth- and fourteenth-century sources from Europe to China mention "tartar cloth." Anne Wardwell had identified these so-called panni tartarici as drawloom
silks woven with gold, and Allsen connects these cloths to the textiles called nasij in the Arabic sources and nakh in Persian, generically meaning woven stuff or textile and then more narrowly denoting a cloth of silk and gold.
He runs a workshop of traditional Indian drawlooms
in Varanasi, which weave samite, lampas and velvet textiles modelled on historical Indian, Iranian and Ottoman silks.