One sauce candidate might be an Italian bagna cauda
-- which features olive oil, anchovy and lemon.
The luscious perfectly seared steak was soft, tasty, and tender, and the bagna cauda
that accompanied it, with its buttery overtones and Italian flair, made the meal ambrosial.
I've eaten at all three of their previous restaurants and can guess who is responsible for what: Malou for the steaks, given her expertise in the area at the Balthazarinspired (another great brasserie that happens to be located in New York) restaurant next door; the small plates of intense Mediterranean flavors such as the black stew of baby squid in ink are in the style of Lu; while the neglected and lamented Provencalstyle dishes like bagna cauda
, vegetables with an anchovy dip, hark to Mesclun.
He sticks to the Jesuit tradition of eating simple foods but takes the occasional break to treat himself to his favourite meal of bagna cauda
(hot bath in Italian).
For the anchovy bagna cauda
dressing: 1 ounce young garlic or spring garlic 2 ounces extra virgin olive oil 4 ounces milk 2 ounces oil-packed anchovy fillets Salt and pepper To serve: 4 heads mixed baby lettuces, such as red romaine, Lollo Bianco, and/or baby escarole, separated into leaves 1 head fennel quartered and sliced 1/4-inch thick 6 mixed radishes, cut lengthwise into wedges 6 stalks thin asparagus, blanched, sliced on the bias 4 baby carrots, sliced lengthwise 1/4-inch thick 4 fresh porcini mushrooms, trimmed, cleaned shaved thin Salt and pepper For the dressing.
, an Italian version of fondue, hits all the right notes: It's delicious, it showcases fresh veggies, and it invites conversation around the bowl, or "hot bath," flavored with garlic and anchovies.
Try serving your chips with a simple dip that mixes any of these, such as Italian bagna cauda
, which is a "hot bath" of anchovies, butter, olive oil and garlic.
Other January dishes include bagna cauda
bavette steak, pan roasted Utah trout, and hand-cut pasta with braised rabbit.
Braised cardoons with bagna cauda
, a piquant sauce made from anchovies, garlic and cream, was followed by rabbit with sweet peppers, beef braised in Barbera wine or tender, rare veal.
Ristorante da Piero, another family owned business, specializes in homemade strozzapreti tossed with herbs, tomatoes, eggplant and sweet shrimp, grilled scarmoza cheese toast with bagna cauda
This practice has expanded to include chicken, shrimp, and other seafood, as well as vegetables, the latter of which is similar to the Italian bagna cauda
in which vegetables are dipped into sizzling flavored olive oil.
And Dickman's personal Italian expression results in stuffed squash blossoms ($7), tripe stewed in white wine Florentine-style ($6), the hot oil-with-anchovies vegetable dip called bagna cauda
($7) and pan-roasted Maine mussels ($8) as beginnings.